If you’ve been following skincare trends, you’ve probably seen the ingredient 2-dimethylaminoethanol, usually listed on labels as DMAE. It’s popping up in many anti-aging creams and serums, with claims that it helps reduce wrinkles by preventing cell deterioration.
But is DMAE really safe for your skin? Let’s take a closer look.
What Is DMAE?
DMAE is a compound found naturally in fish such as sardines and anchovies, and even in small amounts in the human brain. This has made it appealing to some cosmetic companies, who argue it has a place in skincare.
When applied topically, DMAE has been promoted as a skin-firming and wrinkle-reducing ingredient. But the research is far from conclusive and in fact, some studies raise serious concerns.
How DMAE Works (And Why It’s Risky)
Back in 1979, a study revealed that DMAE’s firming effects may be explained by a process called vacuolization.
Here’s what happens:
-
DMAE causes large pools of water to form inside skin cells.
-
This swelling makes the skin appear plumper and smoother, a temporary tightening effect.
-
However, too much water inside the cells causes them to stop functioning properly.
-
Over time, this can accelerate cellular death, essentially damaging the skin from the inside out.
In fact, research from the Faculty of Medicine at Canada’s University Laval found that skin cells exposed to DMAE stopped dividing, stopped secreting, and many died within 24 hours.
So while the results may look good in the short term, the long-term effects could be harmful.
Why I Don’t Use DMAE
As a formulator, I am very cautious about ingredients that haven’t been thoroughly tested over long periods of time. To me, safety is just as important as results.
Until there is more conclusive evidence proving that DMAE is safe and beneficial, it’s an ingredient I’ll continue to avoid and one I encourage you to approach with caution.
There are so many plant-based, safe, and effective alternatives for supporting collagen, improving skin tone, and softening fine lines. Why risk damaging your skin for temporary results?
